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Travel
Beyond The Forest:
Journeys to the Heart of Transylvania
We drove down the western side
from Timisoara to Bucharest, in a Ford Focus diesel, in ten
straight hours, along those cracked, battered, broken roads -
overtaking everything that moved, swerving in and out of heavy
traffic, with huge lorries coming at us flashing lights and
horns - but it wasn't till I came to a door in a rambling, shady
house near a park that I knew I'd arrived in Romania.
The house belonged to an opera singer. There was something
powerful about her, Wagnerian even in her street clothes. She
was more than a little daunting. And yet, when I came to the
door and asked if I could use the loo, she said "please" and
gestured me in. |
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Angels of New York |
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We came in on the George Washington Bridge on the
Interstate, but you could see the city long before that, from
deep inside New Jersey somewhere, the jagged line of skyscrapers
flashing between the hills and trees, shimmering in the bright
autumn sunlight like some giant bejewelled crown abandoned on
the shore by a long-forgotten god. Manhattan Island. Was there
ever a more iconic - or instantly recognisable - skyline?
And then we were sweeping in off the freeway along the slow arc
of the ramp and down into the bustle of traffic along the
highway, making for the Upper West Side.
What is it about New York?
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Iron In The Soul |
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Ironville doesn't have a very good reputation at
all. In fact, it has such a bad reputation that one part of
Ironville doesn't even call itself Ironville. It calls itself
Codnor Park.
Mostly its reputation stems from itself. The village doesn't
need any outsiders to put it down. It does that all by itself.
From the moment I arrived people were going on about its bad
reputation. They kept warning me to move my van in case it was
vandalised. It went on and on. In the end I heeded everyone's
advice and moved out of the village. |
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| The
Golden Cup |
I guess most of you will have heard of Vlad III, Prince of Wallachia, also known as Vlad Tepes. One of
his titles was Dracula, and he was probably the original for the
central character in Bram Stoker’s novel of the same name. He
must have been one of the most evil people ever to have existed.
He is Romania’s most famous historical figure.
“Tepes” means “Impaler”. He got his name because impaling was
his preferred method of execution. This is how it was done. The
victim had his legs yanked apart, by horses attached to ropes,
and then a sharpened stake about the size of a fist was inserted
between the buttocks, up the anus. |
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Western Reunion |
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To be honest, it was more awkward
than I had imagined. I was in Poole in Dorset, meeting an old
pupil of mine. I used to teach English as a foreign language.
The ex-pupil’s name is Vera. She’s twenty four now, and has just
qualified as a Nurse. When I’d known her she was eighteen. We’d
had this brief, innocent romance. It had mainly involved long
walks along the beach holding hands, and deep conversations
looking into each other’s eyes |
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